Wednesday 18 April 2018

Happy Easter Christos Anesti

Christos Anesti ("Χριστός ἀνέστη!" - "Christ is Risen!" in Greek)

As the villagers made their way to the church in response to the bells on Saturday night, the firecrackers went off around them. Undeterred they made it to the church door, but so full of people many stood outside as the liturgy was sung. All ages gathered at the church and some chose to stand alone and watch. Too many bangs to hear the service the Priest completed just before midnight as the fireworks went off illuminating the church from above and the Light of the world was spread out from the church.




 
 
As the Priest came out and said“Christos Anesti” (Christ is Risen) the Villagers replied: “Alithos Anesti” (Truly He is Risen) amid ringing bells and snapping fire-crackers.  Families and friends kissed one another and exchanged the Easter greeting .It was very moving.


 

People bearing candles lit from within  shared amongst each other , returned home lighting the way and spreading the news for another year. The ritual of smoking the cross over the front door must have happened all over the village. Small children carried Pom Pom lights, some had lanterns and some long tapered candles. Mums, Dads, Grandparents, Aunts, Uncles, Widows all shared in the experience and knew the ritual.




 

As I strolled up towards the centre, some men remained in the Kafenions drinking beer and coffee. I couldn’t help think that perhaps this ritual was maybe ‘same old, same old’ , but no. As we walked back past they were watching the event on the Big Screen from Athens away from the dynamite throwers. My ears were ringing from the bells and the explosions.



 

Last minute hair does were being created in the salons presumably for today’s celebrations and big family gatherings. The salon owner closest to the church was taping up his window to save it from the blasts and remonstrating with the offender. So woe betide that Easter Reveller if the glass isn’t intact this morning.

The liturgy continued for a long time after and the occasional crackle could be heard in the voices of the Priest.
"χρόνια πολλά

ps 4 windows broken to date
pps saved from the Magiritsa soup. Sorry as much as I like Greek cuisine didn't fancy lambs entrails.

Monday 16 April 2018

Sounds of silence


Two weeks of walking around Kos as part of my fitness regime…..Whose Kidding? As quite rightly Missy puts up with us stopping for lunch, ice cream, picnics etc. You can’t help but notice the difference between the UK where I live and Kos. The quality of the light, sound and smells. It’s as if  Greece is crystal clear, each individual sound audible and recognisable, each aroma distinct and the visibility crisp .

I went for Easter but was not prepared for the Firecrackers and sticks of dynamite dropped here and there,nearly bursting my ear drums, quite thought I’d be left with tinnitus as they let them off in the street right in front of me cracking windows despite taping them. The bells could be heard resounding around the village as they called for prayer, marriage, baptisms and burials and the Liturgy so clear that any crack in a voice from chanting for so long couldn't be missed as it echoed round the village.

Not sure the cockerels know when first thing in the morning is as they crow and clack and the dogs bark, the cats screech and the donkeys bray like some kind of choir. The scooters squeal and the woman shout to each other never sure whether they are arguing or just passing the time of day. But the sound is clear and unmistakable.

The further out of the Village you go the street noise gets left behind and the sound of the countryside takes over. Bees hum as they take advantage of the wild flowers. Drive up the hairy road to Agios Ioannis (Not yet ready for the season)the sound of silence is broken only by the sound of waves on the shore line so far below.

 

Go up by the windfarm and the gentle whoosh of the arms as they rotate contrast with the bleat of the goats as they follow their mothers. Their bells chink as they clamber across the rocks foraging for food or follow the shepherds.


The sheep bah as they too follow the shepherds or shelter from the sun under the trees.


But in the castle of Antimachia silence. Peaceful , full of life, insects, lizards, butterflies and birds yet silent. Perhaps the Ancients like it that way, hints of ghosts watching and waiting, curious about their visitors must have thought us picnicking in the ruins a bit strange but it was worth it and we were silent.